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Cleaning Mya-qt!?


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OK, all you Mya-QT owners, how on earth do you clean the stem of your MYA-QT??? The Stem is VERY pores up top, with a THICK chamber that makes it impossible for me to get anything in there to clean it out properly!???

Do you have any cleaning tips for this stem!?? And base...

My Cleaning Experience Last Night!
Last night, I had put a wired brush in, and was cleaning the stem, on the bottom portion, where the threads are for the down tube. Well the brush got STUCK, due to the threads, I had to pull REALLY hard to get it out (and I am a big guy) so used a lot of force, well when it finally gave, the stiff wired metal brush scraped across my stomach, OWWWWWWW FUCKKKK! I am really frustrated with cleaning this thing!

Any help would be appreciated!
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Well for you people with the Mya QT, do you knwo what I am talking about when I say the stem is PORES and has a wide chamber! Making it incredibly difficult to clean...

I am trying to soak in lemon juice and flush it out, hoping the lemon juice will eat the crap away...
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No porous - ROUGH from casting and unfortunately no good way to get in there to make it smooth so... sad.gif
Only design flaw in an otherwise great design (Also the VERY narrow upper stem on mine, can barely get it clean w/ my narrowest brush. Are they ALL like that? )

QUOTE (SanguineSolitude @ Dec 20 2006, 12:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
you mean the stem is porous? yeah i guess mine is a bit as well. i just use my smallest most flexible bristled cleaning brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease and get her clean. but yeah its not super easy.
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The only time my brush tries to get stuck is if I don't push it all the way through before I pull it back out. Otherwise the bristles are facing the direction you are trying to pull and lock up against anything they hit. When you push it all the way through the bristles fold the opposite direction and it comes out as easy as it went in. Make sense?
If the brush is not long enough to run it through get a longer brush.
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I found a brush type thing for $1 that is like the ones your find in beginner hookah sets... but bigger and sturdier and curved at the end. But I really don't CLEAN clean my QT much... hot water is your friend.. just let it run through for a minute or less... and keep on filling up and letting out the water in the base... this has worked great for me so far and is so much easier than scrubbing each time, I used to do that.
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I've had the same problem with mine. I just use a small brush and shove it in the stem on an angle so it scrapes the sides thoroughly. It works pretty well, but unfortunately you just can't get it as clean as you could a normal Egyptian, or any other hookah really.
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Soak....

and gettin a good brush.

This is one of the main reasons I have decided to stick with sleeved hookahs. I have a QT and a Persian hookah that has parts that screw together. They both have the porous surface inside.

The trouble with this is that the diameter of the inside changes in and out as you travel down the stem, so when brushing, the bristles contact the narrower surfaces strongly,and then in the "fat" parts it barely touches, if at all (depending on the brush)

The only real thing that helps over the long run is cleaning IMMEDIATELY after smoking.... this is done so that nothing gets any real time to dry out and "cake". Edited by Lakemonster
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go to your local smoke shop and get some 420 brand water pipe cleaner.

the stuff can clean out insanely rez'ed up bongs easily, so it should handle a hookah well. its designed for certain surfaces so get the one for metal.

its mint flavored so it wont leave a nasty taste. its a blue liquid thats naturally abrasive, just squirt some in plug up the ends and give it a shake for ~10 seconds, then wash it out well and it should be surprisingly clean.

do that once a week with hot water cleaning between and it should keep it sparkling, and wont get too expensive.
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I don't know how a QT is built. Would it be possible to apply jewlers rouge to something like a pipe cleaner or small wooden dowel and spin it with a drill to polish the inside of the stem? Probably a very dumb thought on my part LOL. I'm not sure I could live with knowing that the inside was terribly rough from the casting. Perhaps you could machine it out slightly with a drill press? LOL I hate imperfections.
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Further explantion seems to be in order.

The shaft itself is smooth. It is the 'ball shaped' central section that everything screws into that is 'hollow' and rough inside. I'm guessing that it is sand-cast in 2 hemispheres that are welded together and then machined for smoothness on the outside, drilling & tapping holes, etc. If that piece was solid it would be much heavier and cost more in metal to make, thus the casting.

Thanks for the hint on the brush Erica (did you get my PMs RE: diffuser? )
QUOTE (bamboozles @ Dec 21 2006, 07:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for all the replies, I am gonna try some of that bong cleaner I think...
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Oops never mind. I'm quick to jump to the power tools laugh.gif Doesn't sound like there is any way you could polish the inside of it if you wanted to.
QUOTE (hookahmike @ Dec 21 2006, 09:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Further explantion seems to be in order.

The shaft itself is smooth. It is the 'ball shaped' central section that everything screws into that is 'hollow' and rough inside. I'm guessing that it is sand-cast in 2 hemispheres that are welded together and then machined for smoothness on the outside, drilling & tapping holes, etc. If that piece was solid it would be much heavier and cost more in metal to make, thus the casting.

Thanks for the hint on the brush Erica (did you get my PMs RE: diffuser? )
QUOTE (bamboozles @ Dec 21 2006, 07:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for all the replies, I am gonna try some of that bong cleaner I think...


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